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First ascent information


In mountaineering and climbing, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in guide books), is the first successful documented climb to the top of a mountain or the top of a particular climbing route. Early 20th-century mountaineers and climbers focused on reaching the tops of iconic mountains (e.g. the eight-thousanders) and climbing routes (e.g. the great north faces of the Alps) by whatever means possible, often using considerable amounts of aid climbing, and/or with large expedition style support teams that laid "siege" to the climb.

As all the key tops were summited, the manner in which each top was reached became important, particularly the ability to complete the ascent without artificial aid, which is called free climbing. In free climbing, the term first free ascent (abbreviated FFA) is used where a mountain or climbing route is ascended without any artificial aid (devices for protection in the event of a fall could be used as long as they did not aid progression). Completing the FFA of a climbing route is often called freeing (or more latterly sending) a route.

As the sport of climbing developed, additional types of ascent became notable and chronicled in guidebooks and journals. In mountaineering, and alpine climbing in particular, the first winter ascent is recorded, given the significantly greater difficulty. The first solo ascent is also commonly noted, although the first free solo ascent is a more controversial aspect, given the concerns about advocating such a dangerous form of climbing. With the rise in female participation in climbing, the first female free ascent (or FFFA) has also become notable.

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First ascent

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In mountaineering and climbing, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in guide books), is the first successful documented climb to the top of a mountain or...

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First ascent of the Matterhorn

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The first ascent of the Matterhorn was a mountaineering expedition made by Edward Whymper, Lord Francis Douglas, Charles Hudson, Douglas Hadow, Michel...

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List of grade milestones in rock climbing

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In rock climbing, a first free ascent (FFA) is the first redpoint, onsight or flash of a single-pitch, multi-pitch (or big wall), or boulder climbing route...

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First ascent of Mount Everest

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There are two claimants to the title of First ascent of Mount Everest. The 1924 British Mount Everest expedition, consisting of George Mallory and Andrew...

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Kangchenjunga

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Alexander Kellas, early expeditions, the first ascent in 1955, the Indian Army ascent (1977), the second British ascent (1979), women climbers, the Tiger climbers...

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Matterhorn

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became the subject of an international competition for the summit. The first ascent of the Matterhorn was in 1865 from Zermatt by a party led by Edward Whymper...

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Eiger

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Scheidegg at its base, on the eponymous pass connecting the two valleys. The first ascent of the Eiger was made by Swiss guides Christian Almer and Peter Bohren...

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Shishapangma

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demanding and involve 2,200 metres (7,220 ft) of ascent on a 50-degree slope.[citation needed] Shishapangma was first climbed, via the Northern Route, on 2 May...

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Torre Egger

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Egger by climbing first to the col between the peak and Cerro Torre, the Col of Conquest, and then up the ridge to the peak. The ascent was hampered by...

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Adam Ondra

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Sharma, and the first ascent took Ondra nine weeks. On February 9, 2013, two days after La Dura Dura, Ondra succeeded in the second ascent of the 9b (5.15b)...

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Vinson Massif

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the first ascent from the east side but also performed scientific research into snow accumulation at different elevations as well as taking the first ground-based...

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Adi Kailash

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of respect for the peak's holy status. On 8 October 2004, the first successful ascent of Adi Kailash was by the British-Scottish-American team composed...

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Nanga Parbat

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40 hours after setting out. The ascent was made without oxygen, and Buhl is the only man to have made the first ascent of an 8,000-metre (26,000 ft) peak...

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Denali

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recorded the first attempt at climbing Denali, which was unsuccessful. In 1906, Frederick Cook claimed the first ascent, but this ascent is unverified...

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Hornbein Couloir

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U.S.A. Everest Expedition, Thomas Hornbein, who was on the first ascent. The first ascent of the couloir was made on 22 May 1963, by Tom Hornbein and...

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Mount Kennedy

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the unique friendship that exists between our two great nations." Its first ascent was in 1965 by Robert F. Kennedy, with a party of experienced mountaineers...

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Mount Logan

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on July 19 after a 24-day climb. 1959 East Ridge, second ascent and first alpine-style ascent, Hans Gmoser and five others (Canada). Starting from Kluane...

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Brette Harrington

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been done yet,” Harrington noted. In 2014, she and Leclerc made the first ascent of Straight No Chaser, a 1500m route (5.11/A1) in the Waddington Range...

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Siula Grande

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first ascents by new routes made. 28 July 1936 North Ridge by Arnold Awerzger [de] and Erwin Schneider [de] from Austria. 21 June 1966 fourth ascent,...

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Colin Haley

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the first to climb the Entropy Wall (2,300m, VI 5.9 A2 WI4+) on Mount Moffit, in 2006. In 2007, Haley and Kelly Cordes made the first complete ascent of...

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Ulvetanna Peak

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Rabone, Sean 'Stanley' Leary, Jason Pickles, and David Reeves made the first ascent of a new route up the north-east ridge, and is documented in Lee's film...

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Reinhold Messner

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the first solo ascent of Mount Everest and, along with Peter Habeler, the first ascent of Everest without supplemental oxygen. He was the first person...

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El Capitan

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the route without siege tactics. The first solo climb of The Nose was done by Tom Bauman in 1969. The first ascent of The Nose in one day was accomplished...

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Cobra Crack

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in 2005 – Canadian climber Sonnie Trotter made the first free ascent in 2006. With subsequent ascents, the consensus grade has settled at 5.14b (8c) which...

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Beth Rodden

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second free ascent of The Nose. In 2008, Rodden made the first ascent of Meltdown, one of the hardest traditional climbs in the world and the first time in...

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Cerro Torre

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parties consider the ascent complete only if they summit the often-difficult ice-rime mushroom.[citation needed] The first undisputed ascent was made in 1974...

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Alex Honnold

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best known for his free solo ascents of big walls. Honnold rose to worldwide fame in June 2017 when he became the first person to free solo a route on...

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