25 May 1955 by Joe Brown and George Band on British Kangchenjunga expedition (First winter ascent 11 January 1986 by Jerzy Kukuczka and Krzysztof Wielicki)[3][4]
Easiest route
glacier/snow/ice climb
Kangchenjunga, also spelled Kanchenjunga, Kanchanjanghā and Khangchendzonga, is the third-highest mountain in the world. Its summit lies at 8,586 m (28,169 ft) in a section of the Himalayas, the Kangchenjunga Himal, which is bounded in the west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak River and Jongsang La, and in the east by the Teesta River.[1][5] It lies in the border region between Nepal and Sikkim state of India, with three of the five peaks, namely Main, Central and South, directly on the border,[6] and the peaks West and Kangbachen in Nepal's Taplejung District.[7]
Until 1852, Kangchenjunga was assumed to be the highest mountain in the world, but calculations and measurements by the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India in 1849 showed that Mount Everest, known as Peak XV at the time, is actually higher. After allowing for further verification of all calculations, it was officially announced in 1856 that Kangchenjunga was the third-highest mountain,[8] after Everest and K2 of Karakoram.[9]
The Kangchenjunga is a sacred mountain in Nepal and Sikkim and was first climbed on 25 May 1955 by Joe Brown and George Band, who were part of the 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition. They stopped just short of the true summit, keeping a promise given to Tashi Namgyal, the Chogyal of Sikkim, that the top of the mountain would remain inviolate.[10] The Indian side of the mountain is off-limits to climbers. In 2016, the adjoining Khangchendzonga National Park was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
^ abCarter, H. A. (1985). "Classification of the Himalaya" (PDF). American Alpine Journal. 27 (59): 109–141.
^ abcCite error: The named reference peaklist was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
^Cite error: The named reference KW-jk was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
^Cite error: The named reference KW-hj was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
^Freshfield, D. W. (1903). Round Kangchenjunga: a narrative of mountain travel and exploration. London: Edward Arnold.
^Gurung, H. & Shrestha, R. K. (1994). Nepal Himalaya Inventory. Kathmandu: Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation.
^Bhuju, U. R.; Shakya, P. R.; Basnet, T. B.; Shrestha, S. (2007). Nepal Biodiversity Resource Book. Protected Areas, Ramsar Sites, and World Heritage Sites(PDF). Kathmandu, Nepal: International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development, Ministry of Environment, Science and Technology, in cooperation with United Nations Environment Programme, Regional Office for Asia and the Pacific. ISBN 978-92-9115-033-5.
^Gillman, P. (1993). Everest: The Best Writing and Pictures from Seventy Years of Human Endeavour. Boston: Little, Brown and Company. p. 208. ISBN 978-0316904896.
^Searle, M.P. (2013). Colliding Continents: A Geological Exploration of the Himalaya, Karakoram, and Tibet. EBL ebooks online. OUP Oxford. p. 65. ISBN 978-0-19-965300-3. Retrieved 3 January 2024.
^Kapadia, H. (2001). Across Peaks and Passes in Darjeeling and Sikkim. New Delhi: Indus Publishing Company. ISBN 978-8173871269.
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