Global InformationList of grade milestones in rock climbing information
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In rock climbing, a first free ascent (FFA) is the first redpoint, onsight or flash of a single-pitch, multi-pitch (or big wall), or boulder climbing route that did not involve using aid equipment to help progression or resting; the ascent must therefore be performed in either a sport, a traditional, or a free solo manner. First-free-ascents that set new grade milestones are important events in rock climbing history, and are listed below. While sport climbing has dominated absolute-grade milestones since the mid-1980s (i.e. are now the highest grades), milestones for modern traditional climbing, free solo climbing, onsighted, and flashed ascents, are also listed.
A route's grade is provisional until enough climbers have repeated the route to have a "consensus". At the highest grades, this can take years as few climbers are capable of repeating these routes. For example, in 2001, Realization was considered the world's first 9a+ (5.15a), however, the first repeat of the 1996 route Open Air, which only happened in 2008, suggested that it was possibly the first 9a+ (5.15a). Open Air has had no further repeats, and has had holds broken since 1996, whereas Realization has had many ascents and is thus a "consensus" 9a+. Therefore, where known, the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th ranked candidates are also chronicled.[1][2]
As of December 2023, the hardest single-pitch redpoint was at the grade of 9c (5.15d) for men and 9b (5.15b) for women. The hardest onsight was at the grade of 9a+ (5.15a) for men and 8c (5.14b) for women. The hardest boulder solved was at the boulder grade of V17 (9A) for men and V15/V16 (8C/8C+) for women. The hardest multi-pitch (or big wall) redpoint was at the grade of 9a (5.14d). The hardest single-pitch free solo was at the grade of 8c (5.14b), and the hardest multi-pitch (or big wall) free solo was at 7c+ (5.13a).
- ^ "Chris Sharma Turns 40 Today, Happy Birthday!". Gripped.com. 23 April 2021. Retrieved 22 December 2021.
- ^ McDonald, Dougald (15 June 2012). "Groundbreaking 5.15 Gets Second Ascent". Outside. Retrieved 22 December 2021.