‹ The template Infobox climber is being considered for merging. ›
Jerry Moffatt
Soloing L'Horla (E1 5b), Curbar Edge.[1]
Personal information
Nationality
British
Born
(1963-05-18) 18 May 1963 (age 61)[2] Leicester, England[3][4]
Education
St David's College[5]
Occupation
Professional rock climber
Height
5 ft 11 in (180 cm)[6]
Weight
10 st (140 lb; 64 kg)[6]
Spouse
Sharon Wallace (m.2003)[2]
Climbing career
Type of climber
Sport climbing
Traditional climbing
Bouldering
Free Solo
Competition climbing
Highest grade
Redpoint: 8c+ (5.14c)
On-sight: 8a+ (5.13c)
Bouldering: 8B (V13)
Known for
First to climb 8a+, 8c+ (sport)
First to on-sight 7b+, 7c, 7c+ (sport)
One of first to climb 8A+, 8B (bouldering)
First ascents
Ulysees' Bow (E6 6b, '83)
Master's Wall (E7 6b,[a] '83)
Masterclass (8a, '83)
Revelations (8a+,[b] '84)
Superman (8A+/V12, '88)
Evolution (8c+, '95)
Major ascents
The Face (8a+, '83)
Liquid Ambar (8c+, '90)
The Dominator (8B/V13, '93)
Retired
1990 (competition); 2002 (general)[5]
Medal record
IFSC Climbing World Cup
1989
Lead
Sport Roccia
1989
Lead
Updated on 16 January 2022
Jerry Moffatt (born 18 March 1963), is a British rock climber and climbing author who is widely considered as being the best British rock climber from the early-1980s to the early-1990s, and was arguably the best rock climber in the world in the mid-1980s, and an important climber in the history of the sport.
As a sport climber, Moffatt was one of the first climbers in history to onsight routes of grade 7b+ (5.12c), 7c (5.12d), and 7c+ (5.13a), and also the first in history to climb routes of grade 8a+ (5.13c), and probably 8c+ (5.14c).[c] As a competition climber, Moffatt won several of the nascent tour events, and retired ranked first in the world. As a boulder climber, Moffatt was one of the first-ever to solve problems of boulder grade 8A+ (V12), and 8B (V13). As a traditional climber, Moffatt established some of the most intimidating routes at the time in Britain, which are still rarely repeated, and in particular, the Master's Wall (E7 6b) in 1983.[a]
Moffatt was noted for the intensity of his training, and the co-development of training techniques now considered mainstream in professional climbing. In 1991, Moffatt opened Britain's first indoor climbing centre, "The Foundry" in Sheffield. He has written books on mental preparation for competition climbing.
^Cite error: The named reference MW was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
^ abCite error: The named reference REV was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
^"An Interview with Jerry Moffatt About Comp Climbing". Gripped.com. 28 November 2016. Retrieved 15 January 2022.
^Cite error: The named reference CP was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
^ abHobley, Nicholas; Grimes, Niall (26 February 2009). "Jerry Moffatt Interview". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 14 January 2022.
^ ab"The master climber". BBC. 2 June 2006. Retrieved 14 January 2022. Jerry is one of, if not the greatest climbers of all time, and his name is known and highly respected in the global world of rock climbing
Cite error: There are <ref group=lower-alpha> tags or {{efn}} templates on this page, but the references will not show without a {{reflist|group=lower-alpha}} template or {{notelist}} template (see the help page).
‹ The template Infobox climber is being considered for merging. › JerryMoffatt (born 18 March 1963), is a British rock climber and climbing author who...
14c): Liquid Ambar – Pen Trwyn, (WAL) – May 1990 – First ascent by JerryMoffatt who graded 8c (5.14b), but subsequent repeats have regraded it to 8c+...
Tormented Ejaculation, and left it ungraded. In 1983, British climber JerryMoffatt chopped the bolt while abseiling; and then climbed past it, but avoided...
ISBN 978-1-59485-502-3. "JerryMoffatt's Classic 1990's Campus Board Film". Gripped. 17 October 2018. Retrieved 28 November 2022. "JerryMoffatt: from the Campus...
the beginning of the Golden Age of Yosemite climbing". In June 1985, JerryMoffatt did the first free ascent of the Lost Arrow Spire Chimney with Ron Kauk...
climbers like JerryMoffatt and Wolfgang Güllich changed to sport climbing, in which all future new grade milestones would be established. Moffatt's last major...
the three sub-disciplines. Leading climbers such as Wolfgang Güllich, JerryMoffatt, Alexander Huber, Fred Nicole, Chris Sharma, Adam Ondra, and Tommy Caldwell...
Graham Victor Harold Moffatt (6 December 1919 – 2 July 1965) was an English comedic character actor. He is best known for a number of films where he appeared...
1960s), Ron Fawcett and Peter Livesey (in the 1970s), and Johnny Dawes, JerryMoffatt and John Redhead (in the 1980s). The British 1953 Mount Everest expedition...
Redhead, and less for sport climbing routes, unlike his contemporaries JerryMoffatt and Ben Moon. Dawes came to prominence outside of the rock climbing...
Year Winner Second Third 1989 Simon Nadin Didier Raboutou JerryMoffatt 1990 François Legrand Jacky Godoffe Jim Karn 1991 François Legrand (2) François...
dominance waned during the mid-1980s, as emerging British climbers such as JerryMoffatt and Ben Moon began to push technical levels not just in British climbing...
2022. Moffatt, Jerry (12 August 2020). "The Winning Mind". Outside. Retrieved 18 January 2022. Larrsen, Jens (23 February 2010). "Book Review: Jerry Moffat...
first-ever 7c (5.12d) onsight in history. History of rock climbing JerryMoffatt "Adieu Patrick Edlinger". planetmountain.com. 17 November 2012. Retrieved...
Meltdown at 9a (5.14d) (previously bolted and attempted by Dawes and JerryMoffatt), also in the Twll Mawr section. The Vivian quarry section is also used...
Saddleworth; Simon Nadin; the Foundry indoor climbing centre, opened by JerryMoffatt in 1991; Undercover Rock at St Werburgh's Church, Bristol; sport climbing;...
others. The creators of many of the extreme routes climbed in the film, JerryMoffatt, Johnny Dawes, and John Dunne, are also shown speculating, and top roping...
traditional climbing to sport climbing in Britain and abroad; others included JerryMoffatt, and Ben Moon. In 1993, Pollitt permanently moved to Australia where...
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Alps Gwen Moffat (born 1924) UK, author of Space Below My Feet (1961) JerryMoffatt (born 1963) UK, sport climber and boulderer Silvio Mondinelli (born...