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Clean climbing information


Traditional pitons wedged into cracks, thus destroying the rock face.

Clean climbing is rock climbing techniques and equipment which climbers use in order to avoid damage to the rock. These techniques date at least in part from the 1920s and earlier in England, but the term itself may have emerged in about 1970 during the widespread and rapid adoption in the United States and Canada of nuts (also called chocks), and the very similar but often larger hexes, in preference to pitons, which damage rock and are more difficult and time-consuming to install.[1] Pitons were thus eliminated in North America as a primary means of climbing protection in a period of less than three years.

Due to major improvements in equipment and technique, the term clean climbing has come to occupy a far less central, and somewhat different, position in discussions of climbing technology, compared with that of the brief and formative period when it emerged four decades ago.

  1. ^ http://americanalpineclub.org/AAJO/pdfs/1972/frost_cracks1972_1-6.pdf [permanent dead link]

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