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Anatoli Boukreev information


Anatoli Boukreev
Boukreev in 1991
Born
Anatoli Nikolaevich Boukreev

(1958-01-16)January 16, 1958
Korkino, Russian SFSR, USSR
DiedDecember 25, 1997(1997-12-25) (aged 39)
Annapurna I, Nepal
Cause of deathAvalanche
CitizenshipKazakhstan Kazakhstan
EducationBachelor of Science
Alma materChelyabinsk State University
OccupationMountaineer
Known for18 ascents of 8000m peaks,
1996 Mount Everest disaster rescues
AwardsOrder "For Personal Courage" USSR Order For Personal Courage
Alt text USSR Order For Merit To The Fatherland
David A. Sowles Memorial Award

Anatoli Nikolaevich Boukreev (Kazakh: Анато́лий Никола́евич Букре́ев; January 16, 1958 – December 25, 1997) was a Soviet and Kazakh mountaineer who made ascents of 10 of the 14 eight-thousander peaks—those above 8,000 m (26,247 ft)—without supplemental oxygen. From 1989 through 1997, he made 18 successful ascents of peaks above 8,000 m.

Boukreev had a reputation as an elite mountaineer in international climbing circles for summiting K2 in 1993 and Mount Everest via the North Ridge route in 1995, and for his solo speed ascents of some of the world's highest mountains. He became even more widely known for saving the lives of climbers during the 1996 Mount Everest disaster.

In 1997, Boukreev was killed in an avalanche during a winter ascent of Annapurna in Nepal.[1] Boukreev's companion, Linda Wylie, edited his memoirs and published them in 2002 under the title, Above the Clouds: The Diaries of a High-Altitude Mountaineer.

  1. ^ Lene Gammelgaard; Press Seal (20 June 2000). Climbing High: A Woman's Account of Surviving the Everest Tragedy. HarperCollins. p. 207. ISBN 978-0-06-095361-4. Retrieved 25 September 2012.

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Anatoli Boukreev

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Anatoli Nikolaevich Boukreev (Kazakh: Анато́лий Никола́евич Букре́ев; January 16, 1958 – December 25, 1997) was a Soviet and Kazakh mountaineer who made...

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1996 Mount Everest disaster

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Consultants team, published Into Thin Air (1997) which became a bestseller. Anatoli Boukreev, a guide in the Mountain Madness team, felt impugned by the book and...

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Jon Krakauer

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the plot. In the book, Krakauer noted that Russian-Kazakhstani guide Anatoli Boukreev, Scott Fischer's top guide on the expedition, ascended the summit without...

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Into Thin Air

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account of how Anatoli Boukreev, an experienced Russian high-altitude climber and guide for Scott Fischer, had handled the climb. Boukreev had descended...

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Scott Fischer

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eight clients in climbing Everest. He was assisted by Neal Beidleman, Anatoli Boukreev, and eight Sherpas, led by Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa. On May 6, the Mountain...

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Yasuko Namba

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dangerous, and waited for a break in the storm. One of Fischer's guides, Anatoli Boukreev, set out from Camp IV into the night to find the cluster of trapped...

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Anatoly

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Russian physicist Anatoli Bogdanov (born 1981), Russian footballer Anatoli Boisa (born 1983), Georgian basketball player Anatoli Boukreev (1958–1997), Russian...

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Khan Tengri

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Chapaev Peak (6,371 m; 20,902 ft) and Gorky Peak (6,050 m; 19,849 ft). Anatoli Boukreev considered Khan Tengri perhaps the world's most beautiful peak because...

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Annapurna

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MacIntyre in 1982, Frenchman Pierre Béghin in 1992, Kazakh Russian Anatoli Boukreev in 1997, Spaniard Iñaki Ochoa in 2008, Korean Park Young-seok in 2011...

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Beck Weathers

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other men and women were left there so the others could summon help. Anatoli Boukreev, a guide on another expedition led by Scott Fischer, came and rescued...

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Hillary Step

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snowfall, the rock face could be bypassed with snow/ice climbing. Anatoli Boukreev found a body hanging from ropes at the base of the step in 1996, according...

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Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa

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published the bestseller Into Thin Air, which related his experience. Anatoli Boukreev, a guide for Fischer's expedition whose actions were criticized somewhat...

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Mount Everest

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experience. Krakauer was critical of guide Anatoli Boukreev in his recollection of the expedition. A year later, Boukreev co-authored The Climb, in part as a...

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Mountain Madness

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community projects, and visit conservation areas. Scott Fischer (d. 1996) Anatoli Boukreev (d. 1997) Keith Boskoff (d. 1999) Christine Boskoff (d. 2007) Charlie...

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Dhaulagiri

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– Russian-British team puts up the direct north face route. 1995 — Anatoli Boukreev, speed ascent, record time 17 hours 15 mins, base camp to summit. 1998...

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Broad Peak

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establishing a new solo route now known as Route Carsolio. 1997 On July 7, Anatoli Boukreev achieved a solo ascent. 2013 On March 5, first winter ascent by Polish...

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Mount Elbrus

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the first official race between the refuge and the pass. In 1990, Anatoli Boukreev set a record by climbing from the refuge to the eastern summit in a...

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Pete Schoening

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several books, including Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer and The Climb by Anatoli Boukreev. In 2004, he died of bone cancer at his home in Kenmore, Washington...

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Makalu

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Pillar route. 1994: On May 15, the anniversary of the first summit, Anatoli Boukreev made a speed ascent in 46 hours.[citation needed] 1997: After seven...

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Lenin Peak

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team, led by Valery Khrichtchatyi, included G. Lunyakov, Z. Khalitov, Anatoli Boukreev, V. Suviga, Y. Moiseev and A. Tselischev. The climb beginning from...

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Green Boots

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Sherpa Jon Krakauer Beck Weathers Neal Beidleman Lene Gammelgaard Anatoli Boukreev Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa Michael Groom (climber) Sandy Hill (mountaineer)...

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Lhotse

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becomes the first woman to reach the summit of Lhotse. 1996 May 17 Anatoli Boukreev solo ascent, world speed record at 21 hours 16 min from Base Camp to...

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Andrew Lock

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in 1993 with a small team that included legendary Himalayan climber Anatoli Boukreev, who later died in 1997 on Annapurna. The "Savage Mountain" lived up...

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Russians in Kazakhstan

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Russians according to the census over the years by regions: Nik Antropov Anatoli Boukreev Alexander Dutov Gennady Golovkin (half-Korean) Vassiliy Jirov Vsevolod...

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