For the footballer, see Alexander Huber (footballer). For the Austrian beach volleyball player, see Alexander Huber (beach volleyball).
Alexander Huber
Huber in 2009
Personal information
Born
(1968-12-30) 30 December 1968 (age 55) Trostberg, Bavaria, West Germany
Education
Ludwig Maximilian University of Munich (Physics)
Occupation(s)
Theoretical physicist, professional rock climber, and mountain guide
Height
176 cm (5 ft 9 in)
Weight
62 kg (137 lb) (sport climbing)
Spouse
Kristina Huber
Relative
Thomas Huber (brother)
Website
www.huberbuam.de
Climbing career
Type of climber
Sport climbing
Traditional climbing
Free solo climbing
Big wall climbing
Highest grade
Redpoint: 9a+ (5.15a)
Known for
First to redpoint at grade 9a+ (5.15a), second to redpoint at 9a (5.14d)
First to redpoint a big wall at grade 8a (5.13b), and at grade 8c (5.14b)
First to free solo 8b+ (5.14a), second to free solo 8b (5.13d)
First to free solo a big wall at grade 7a+ (5.12a)
First individual free ascent of the Salathé Wall (1995)
First free solo of the Brandler-Hasse Direttissima (2002)
First ascents
Om (9a/5.14d, 1992)
Weisse Rose (9a/5.14d, 1994)
Open Air [de] (9a+/5.15a, 1996)
Tsering Mosong (VII 5.10c A3, west face Latok II, 1997)
El Nino (5.13c/A0, 1998)
Freerider (5.12d, 1998)
Bellavista [it] (8c, 2001)
Zodiac (5.13d, 2003)
Voie Petit [it] (8b, 2005)
Pan Aroma [it] (8c, 2007)
Eternal Flame (5.13a, 2009)
Updated on 17 July 2023.
Alexander Huber (born 30 December 1968) is a German rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of rock climbing. Huber came to prominence in the early 1990s as the world's strongest sport climber after the passing of Wolfgang Güllich. He is the second-ever person to redpoint a 9a (5.14d) graded route by ascending Om in 1992, and has latterly come to be known as the first-ever person to redpoint a 9a+ (5.15a) graded route from his 1996 ascent of Open Air [de].
For a decade following the mid-1990s, Huber, often partnered with his brother Thomas, also came to be regarded as the strongest big wall free climber of his generation, with groundbreaking first ascents in Yosemite (El Nino in 1998, and Zodiac in 2003), the Karakoram (Latok II in 1997, and Eternal Flame in 2009), and in other notable big wall locations around the world. Huber’s 1995 ascent of the Salathé Wall in Yosemite was the first-ever redpoint of an 8a (5.13b) graded big wall in history. His 2001 ascent of Bellavista [it] in the Dolomites was the first-ever redpoint of an 8c (5.14b) graded big wall in history.
Huber is also known as one of the greatest free solo climbers for both big wall and sport climbing routes. In 2002, he free soloed the first-ever grade 7a+ (5.12a) big wall in history, the 580-metre Brandler-Hasse Direttissima in the Dolomites. In 2003, he free soloed the second-ever grade 8b (5.13d) sport climbing route in history with Der Opportunist in Austria, and in 2004, he became the first-ever person in history to free solo an 8b+ (5.14a) graded sport route with Kommunist, also in Austria.
AlexanderHuber (born 30 December 1968) is a German rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of...
Thomas Huber: Ogre - Gipfel der Träume, BLV, 2002, ISBN 3-405-16374-9 Our Milestones Thomas and AlexanderHuber. retrieved 20 November 2017 "Thomas Huber"....
model. AlexanderHuber (born 1968), German climber and mountaineer AlexanderHuber (football) (born 1985), German football player Alyson Huber (born 1972)...
big wall redpoint at 8c (5.14b), by AlexanderHuber; repeating the route in 2007 (to create Pan Aroma, also 8c), Huber found some key holds were "treated"...
Romantic Warrior won him National Geographic's "Adventurer of the Year". AlexanderHuber – one of the strongest rock climbers of the 1990s who set free solo...
Free-Solo Video – Alex Huber on a 20-Pitch 5.12a". Gripped Magazine. 2 November 2021. Retrieved 16 December 2022. Huber, Alexander; Huber, Thomas (2013). "Mount...
Moffatt, AlexanderHuber, Fred Nicole, Chris Sharma, Adam Ondra, and Tommy Caldwell set records in several of these disciplines. Güllich and Huber also made...
also been used on big wall climbing routes by climbers such as German AlexanderHuber and British climber Pete Whittaker. In rope-soloing, the climber acts...
emergence of professional rock climbers, such as Wolfgang Güllich, AlexanderHuber, Chris Sharma, Adam Ondra, Lynn Hill, Catherine Destivelle, and Janja...
route on El Capitan is called Freerider, a route that was created by AlexanderHuber in 1998, and which is graded at 5.13a (7c+) in difficulty. No climber...
original on August 7, 2020. Retrieved July 30, 2015. Neumann, Alexander (6 June 2011). "GitHub populärer als SourceForge und Google Code". heise Developer...
List of grade milestones in rock climbing Alex Honnold Beth Rodden AlexanderHuber Clarke, Owen (17 March 2022). "Tommy Caldwell, Dominant Force In Big...
Exupery, Patagonia. Although the route had been climbed before by AlexanderHuber in 2011, she was the first climber, male or female, to do so without...
the guards came for Alexander Schmorell. A few minutes later, the guards came for Kurt Huber. The university had stripped Huber of his position and his...
Anecdotes and Advice. Guilford, CT: Falcon. pp. 81–85. ISBN 9781493034734. AlexanderHuber and Heinz Zak, Yosemite: Half a Century of Dynamic Rock Climbing, Menasha...
1997 Tsering Mosong, Latok II, Karakorum, Pakistan, FA with AlexanderHuber, Thomas Huber and Toni Gutsch. 1997 Continental Drift, El Capitan, Yosemite...
Cerro Kishtwar. 2011 Lofer (Austria): Lama repeated Feuertaufe (8b) by AlexanderHuber, as well as Stoamandl (8b), Donnervogel (8b) and Woher Kompass (8a+)...
Capitan Nose record was broken by the German brothers AlexanderHuber and Thomas Huber. The Hubers climbed The Nose on October 8, 2007 in 2 hours, 45 minutes...
al. 1989 route with the crux at 6000 metres; the FFA was by Alexander and Thomas Huber in 2009. Wikimedia Commons has media related to Barbara Zangerl...
Free Climbs. Helena MT: Falcon Press. p. 371. ISBN 0-934641-59-5. AlexanderHuber and Heinz Zak, Yosemite: Half a Century of Dynamic Rock Climbing, Menasha...
Wikisource has original works by or about: Thomas Gray Thomas Gray Archive AlexanderHuber, ed., University of Oxford Thomas Gray at the Eighteenth-Century Poetry...
Emily Harrington François Damilano Daniel Du Lac Dave Graham Lynn Hill AlexanderHuber Robert Jasper Olivier Testa Chris Sharma Several members of the team...
called it "the biggest thing that has ever been done on rock" and AlexanderHuber later wrote that this climb "passed men's dominance in climbing and...