(1942-07-22) 22 July 1942 (age 81) Mayrhofen, Tyrol, Austria
Occupation(s)
Mountaineer, ski instructor
Climbing career
Known for
Mount Everest first ascent without supplemental oxygen
Major ascents
Mount Everest
Cho Oyu
Nanga Parbat
Kangchenjunga
Hidden Peak
Yerupaja Chico
Eiger north face
Peter Habeler (born 22 July 1942)[1] is an Austrian mountaineer. He was born in Mayrhofen, Austria. He developed an interest in mountain climbing at age six.[2]
Among his accomplishments as a mountaineer are his first ascents in the Rocky Mountains. He was also the first European to take part in big wall climbing in Yosemite National Park.
He began climbing with Reinhold Messner in 1969. Several accomplishments in mountaineering followed. The most notable event was the first ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen on 8 May 1978 together with Messner, which was previously thought to be impossible.[3] A year after his climb on Everest he published Lonely Victory ("Der einsame Sieg". Autor: Eberhard Fuchs) in 1978.[4] Habeler set further records by descending from the summit to the South Col in only one hour and climbing the North Face of the Eiger in ten hours.[2]
Other eight-thousanders (mountains over 8,000 meters) that Habeler has summited are Cho Oyu, Nanga Parbat, Kangchenjunga and Gasherbrum I. He has also climbed Yerupaja Chico (6089 m) in Peru's Cordillera Huayhuash.[2] The ascent of Gasherbrum I was made with Messner in 1975,[5] Alpine-style in three days,[6] and is seen by some as ushering in a new era of Alpine-style ascents of eight-thousanders, in contrast to the "siege" tactics which had largely prevailed to this time. It was the first time an eight-thousander had been climbed Alpine-style.[6] Habeler attempted to climb Everest again in 2000 but failed to do so due to fluid in his lungs.[7]
Habeler became a skiing instructor at age 21 and [2] founded the Peter Habeler Ski and Mountaineering School in his hometown of Mayrhofen, Austria. The school is now run by his son, though Habeler still teaches on occasion.[4]
At age 74, he repeated an ascent on The Eiger's north face with David Lama.[8]
^Peter Habeler (1978). Der einsame Sieg: Mount Everest '78, Goldmann. ISBN 3-442-03740-9
^ abcdhttp://www.everesthistory.com/climbers/habeler [permanent dead link]
^"Men and the mountains". The Calgary Herald. 2008-11-13. Archived from the original on 2010-02-13. Retrieved 2010-07-10.
^ abhttp://www.thecourier.com.uk [permanent dead link]
^Bruckner, D. J. R. (1982-12-12). "High Mountains And Far Places". The New York Times. Retrieved 2014-12-13.
^ abRoberts, David (May 2004). "Messner's Burden". National Geographic Adventure. Archived from the original on 2012-04-04. Retrieved 2010-07-10.
^http://www.eversthistory.com/climbers/habeler [permanent dead link]
PeterHabeler (born 22 July 1942) is an Austrian mountaineer. He was born in Mayrhofen, Austria. He developed an interest in mountain climbing at age...
Tyrol. He made the first solo ascent of Mount Everest and, along with PeterHabeler, the first ascent of Everest without supplemental oxygen. He was the...
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prime example is the successful 1978 ascent by Reinhold Messner and PeterHabeler, the first without bottled oxygen, and followed by a 1980 solo ascent...
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the first ascent, via Roch ridge.: 208 1975 - Reinhold Messner and PeterHabeler reached the summit on a new route (northwest route) in pure alpine style...
old when Himalaya veteran PeterHabeler first watched Lama climb in a climbing camp organized by Habeler. Afterward, Habeler immediately called Lama's...
complete the solo winter Trilogy in 1992–1994. 1975. Reinhold Messner and PeterHabeler made the first ascent of the Northwest Face of Gasherbrum I in pure...
(born 1932), first ascents of Broad Peak (1957) and Dhaulagiri (1960) PeterHabeler (born 1942), first ascent of Mount Everest without oxygen (together...
via the South Col Route. On 8 May 1978, Reinhold Messner (Italy) and PeterHabeler (Austria) reached the summit, the first climbers to do so without the...
without supplemental oxygen. In 1978 he climbed Mount Everest with PeterHabeler without supplemental oxygen, the first men to do so. Long the domain...
Mt Everest without oxygen May 8, 1978 Reinhold Messner (Italy) and PeterHabeler (Austria) made the first successful ascent of Mt Everest without supplemental...
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circuit mountaineering breathing sets On 8 May 1978, Reinhold Messner and PeterHabeler made the first ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen....
supplemental oxygen—for fifty-four years, until Reinhold Messner and PeterHabeler exceeded it on 8 May 1978, on their way to becoming the first mountaineers...