Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve, Alaska / Stikine Region, British Columbia
Parent range
Fairweather Range
Topo map
NTS 114I13
Climbing
First ascent
June 8, 1931 by Allen Carpé and Terris Moore
Easiest route
glacier/snow/ice climb
Mount Fairweather (or Tsalxaan in the Tlingit language[3]) is 20 km (12 mi) east of the Pacific Ocean on the Canada–United States border between Alaska and western British Columbia and has an elevation of 4,653 metres (15,266 ft). Most of the mountain lies within Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve in the City and Borough of Yakutat, Alaska, though the summit borders Tatshenshini-Alsek Provincial Park, British Columbia. Tsalxaan is officially gazetted as Fairweather Mountain in Canada[2] but referred to as Mount Fairweather, and is the highest mountain in the Canadian province of British Columbia. It is also designated as Boundary Peak 164 or as US/Canada Boundary Point #164.[1][4]
It is said this mountain and Yaas'éit'aa Shaa (Mt. St. Elias) were originally next to each other but had an argument and separated. Their children, the mountains in between the two peaks, are called Tsalxaan Yatx'i (Children of Tsalxaan.)[citation needed]
The colonial name for the mountain came from Captain James Cook,[5] on May 3, 1778 apparently for the unusually good weather encountered at the time. The name has been translated into many languages. It was called "Mt. Beautemps" by La Perouse (1786, atlas), "Mte. Buen-tiempo" by Galiano (1802, map 3), "Gor[a]-Khoroshy-pogody" on Russian Hydrographic Dept. Chart 1378 in 1847, and "G[ora] Fayerveder" by Captain Tebenkov (1852, map 7), Imperial Russian Navy. It was called "Schönwetterberg" by Constantin Grewingk in 1850 and "Schönwetter Berg" by Justus Perthes in 1882.[6]
Fairweather was first climbed in 1931 by Allen Carpé and Terris Moore.[7][6]
^ abcdCite error: The named reference peakbagger was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
^ ab"Fairweather Mountain". BC Geographical Names. Retrieved 2010-07-13.
^"Tlingit Place Names of the Huna Kaawu". Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve. National Park Service. Retrieved 14 February 2024.
^"Mount Fairweather-Northeast Peak, British Columbia". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2013-12-22.
^Terris Moore, "Mount Fairweather, Correction", American Alpine Journal 1982, p. 139. He cites Cook and King Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, Volume II, Admiralty, London, 1784, p. 345.
^ ab"Mount Fairweather". Geographic Names Information System. United States Geological Survey, United States Department of the Interior. Retrieved 2004-07-09.
^Cite error: The named reference Scott2000 was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
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