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A plain Derby shoe
A derby (UK: /ˈdɑːrbi/ⓘDAR-bee, US: /ˈdɜːrbi/DUR-bee; also called gibson[1]) is a style of boot or shoe characterized by quarters, with shoelace eyelets, that are sewn on top of the vamp.[2] This construction method, also known as "open lacing", contrasts with that of the Oxford shoe.[citation needed]
Senator J. Hamilton Lewis and attorney Joseph P. Tumulty pictured wearing "white bucks", 1917
In American English the derby shoe may be referred to as a 'blucher', although technically the blucher is a different design of shoe where only eyelet tabs (not larger quarters) are sewn onto a single-piece vamp.
In modern colloquial English the derby shoe may be referred to as 'bucks' when the upper is made of buckskin.[3] "White bucks", or light-colored suede or buckskin (or nubuck) derby shoes, usually with a red sole, were long popular among the students and graduates of Ivy League colleges.[4] By translation, these shoes also became associated with elite law firms in America's eastern cities, especially New York and Boston, giving rise to the name "white-shoe firm" used to describe these prestigious legal institutions.[5]
The derby became a popular sporting and hunting boot in the 1850s. By the turn of the 20th century the derby had become appropriate for wear in town.[6]
Detail of a man's derby-style dress shoe showing lacing eyelet tabs sewn on top of the vamp
^"definition of 'gibson' shoe?". Men's Clothing Forums. 2011-10-13. Retrieved 2024-02-09.
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