Fixed loop on the bight. Isolating a worn section of rope.
ABoK
#331, #532,[1]#1053
Instructions
[1]
The butterfly loop, also known as lineman's loop, butterfly knot, alpine butterfly knot, Swiss loop and lineman's rider, is a knot used to form a fixed loop in the middle of a rope. Tied in the bight, it can be made in a rope without access to either of the ends; this is a distinct advantage when working with long climbing ropes. The butterfly loop is an excellent mid-line rigging knot; it handles multi-directional loading well[2] and has a symmetrical shape that makes it easy to inspect.[2] In a climbing context it is also useful for traverse lines, some anchors, shortening rope slings, and for isolating damaged sections of rope.[3]
^Entry #532 on page 87 of The Ashley Book of Knots shows a diagram of the butterfly loop under the name harness loop. Ashley appears to have illustrated or named the incorrect knot in this case. The harness loop is shown and discussed as a distinct and specific knot throughout the rest of the book.
^ abSmith, Bruce; Allen Padgett (1996). On Rope; North American Vertical Rope Techniques (New Revised ed.). Huntsville, Ala.: National Speleological Society. p. 49. ISBN 1-879961-05-9.
^Marbach, Georges; Bernard Tourte (2002). Alpine Caving Techniques; A Complete Guide to Safe and Efficient Caving. English edition translated and adapted by Melanie Alspaugh. Allschwil, Switzerland: Speleo Projects, Caving Publications International. p. 73. ISBN 3-908495-10-5.
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